JAN / YAN
JAN, referring to my grandfather's wardrobe, carefully gathered pieces that were made (and cared for) to last. Buying a coat was a long-term decision, you did your research. YAN, representing a genderless modernist take on (or a homage to) Jan's uniform.
GRAND COAT, €2100: 100% merino wool loden, heavy-weight pressed duffle coating, 1000 grams per meter, buffalo horn buttons, fully lined with two inner pockets.
My grandfather, like most men that time, had a small but carefully selected wardrobe. And my dad, whose taste was clearly influenced by postwar pop - hence his long hair, jeans and vulcanized trainers - takes much pride in the quality of the garments, as he now wears them. Especially the old sports jackets became his everyday staple. Worn-in jackets, definitely not worn out, in fine gabardines and checked tweeds. The collars are still in shape, the buttonholes are still firm, and the fabrics retained their colour and structure over time. The fit and construction had loosened nicely. The shoulders had gotten softer and the pockets were standing a bit open after both my father's and grandfather's arms had been resting in for years.
Under these jackets go cotton shirts, poplin in white, oxfords in sky blue. The originally sturdy button-down shirts gained a unique softness and the colours had faded nicely over time. He still likes mentioning that these shirts are over 40 years old. The woollen overcoats also can not go unmentioned. British military-grade coats, sturdy but soft, in a weight that is hard to find today. Pure merino loden fabrics, no synthetics or cover-ups, densely woven for sturdiness, rinsed in groundwater for softness. It is a great manifestation of what quality means to me: Long-lasting while ageing beautifully, and serving its purpose.
Also important to note, this wardrobe was not a fancy man's wardrobe. It was his personal selection, carefully gathered and well kept over time, that is now the fundament for my own collection. It allows me to fall back on 5 simple rules:
1: Natural materials, pure fabrics, no blends, allowing a garment to age beautifully over time. 2: Working with Europe's best in class, applying original processes that are ethical and showcase original craftsmanship. 3: A versatile and therefore genderless range that easily combines and fits many occasions. 4: Designed to last and to be repaired. 5: Applying these rules in a way that still offers a sense of personal expression. It must be worth noticing.
Below you see my dad, Frans Jan, wearing JANYAN, shot by me in our The Hague showroom.
Thanks for taking the time,
November 2021, The Hague
Above and below:
THE GRAND KNIT, €400: Fisherman's knit, 100% merino wool, organic yarn, 3-gage plain knit | SYSTEM TROUSERS, €450: merino gabardine, metal waist adjusters, front leg lined. | THE NOORDER TRENCH, €1200: 100% cotton twill, showerproof fabric from Switzerland, buffalo horn buttons, fully lined, two inner pockets, features a storm flap | STANDARD TRAINERS €210: Suede upper, calfskin lining, natural rubber, vulcanized construction, metal eyelets, cotton laces.
Above and below:
NOORDER TRENCH, €1200: 100% cotton twill, showerproof fabric from Switzerland, buffalo horn buttons, fully lined, two inner pockets, features a stormflap | STANDARD JACKET + SYSTEM TROUSERS €1100: 100% merino wool gabardine, Italian fabric, lined jacket and trousers, buffalo horn buttons | STANDARD LOAFERS €460: Calfskin polido, leather-lined, Vibram® commando outsoles, vertical elastic band.
STANDARD JACKET, €650: merino gabardine, finished with horn buttons, fully lined, two inner pockets | SYSTEM TROUSERS, €450: merino gabardine, mental waist adjusters, front leg lined. | LEATHER SLIDES €250: mules developed by orthopedists in Brabant, hand-sewn in NL, upgraded in vegetable-tanned Italian leather.
The Hague, JANYAN Showroom, November 2021